A Basket Of Bootcuffs

Ok, I will begin to say that, by the time I began making this pattern, I was ready to never see a pair of boot cuffs again. I tried one design after another with less-than-adequate results. Everything I tried turned out ugly or just didn't fit- nothing was stretchy enough. Finally, I thought, "Well, I haven't seen anything with basketweave." I had my style. I have not EVER done anything in this stitch, and I didn't even take the time to learn the proper way to make it work. If it isn't the correct method, I apologize... sorry! I decided to just go by the stitches' looks. Simple enough, right? Absolutely.

Fits: 13-14" calf (These values are estimated, so, if it doesn't work, just add or subtract a few blo sc rows, keeping them an even number that is divisible by 3 when 2 stitches are added. For a smaller cuff, do 34 rows; for a larger cuff, do 46. My calves are 13.5", and these have quite a bit of stretch.)

Materials: 

Worsted yarn... Maybe 120yds.?

H/5.00mm hook

Yarn needle

Abbreviations:

Rd(s)- round(s)

Sc- single crochet

Blo- back loops only

Fpdc- front post double crochet

Bpdc- back post double crochet

Sl st- slip stitch

Ch- chain

St(s)- stitch(es)

Dc- double crochet

Instructions:

Slipknot, ch 15.

Row 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (14)

Row 2-40: Ch 1, sc in blo across. (14)

To join, align both edges and sl st the sts of the last row to the beginning ch across. Flip the work. Ch 2 to compensate for the height lost by flipping and continue to directions for rd 1.

Rd 1: Sc in the edge of each row; add in 2 sts unnoticeably, sl st to 1st sc. (42)

Rd 2: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around, sl st to top of ch 3, sl st around front of ch 3. (42)

Rds 3-4: Ch 3, fpdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 3 st, *fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts* to end, sl st to top of ch 3, sl around front of ch 3.

Rds 5-6: Ch 3, bpdc in next 2 sts, fpdc in next 3 st, *bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts* to end, sl st to top of ch 3, sl around back of ch 3.

Fasten off the work and weave in all ends... You just made your own cute basketweave bootcuffs!

"Leaving" Winter Behind Headband

Are you REALLY tired of winter? I know I am! I was dreaming about a white Christmas, but one, good snow was enough. Unthaw yourself with this spring-summer headband and wave winter goodbye! The headband isn't seperated into rows because you don't turn, so I hope it's decipherable. I used the stitch explained in this pattern as a guide: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/little-leaves-stitch-and-scarf . You could add a bright little flower to make it even sweeter- I think a daisy would be nice. So, here comes my pattern. Enjoy!

Materials-

H-5.00mm hook

Worsted green yarn (I used "I Love This Yarn" in light sage)

Abbrevations-

Ch- chain

Tr2tog- treble crochet two together (in this case, all in the same stitch)

Hk- hook

Pattern-

Ch 34. In 4th ch from hk, tr2tog. (Ch 6, tr2tog in 4th ch from hk) 13 times. Ch 30, fasten off, and weave in ends. You should end with a total of 14 leaves.

Peeps Inspired Soft Toy

Just to clarify, the bunny isn't crooked.  That's just the way I photographed it (sorry, guys).


Today's post is this sweet little "Peeps".  You could actually use it for just a regular rabbit toy or decoration, but that's just what I designed it like.  It's fairly simple, but connecting the ears to make the body can be a bit tricky...  As for the face, you can make french knots or add safety eyes, and the nose is just an embroidered yarn "X".

Materials:
Worsted yarn (pink, blue, or yellow for the Easter look)
Small amount of black or brown worsted yarn for face
F/3.50mm hook
Yarn needle
Stuffing (I used "Morning Glory" polyester)

Abbreviations:
Ch- chain
St(s)- stitch(es)
Sc- single crochet
Rd(s)- round(s)

Instructions:

Ears (make 2)

Magic ring, ch 1.
Rd 1: Sc 6 in ring, join, ch 1. (6)
Rd 2: 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st, (*2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st*) around, join, ch 1. (9)
Rds 3-12: 1 sc in each st around, join, ch 1. (Do the "ch 1" in every rd but the last one.) (9)

Stuff each ear firmly with your choice of stuffing.

Body

Rd 1: Hold the ears parallel to one another. For the body, you'll single crochet in each st of both ears around.  This means that when you start, slip stitch, chain 1, put one single crochet to join the ears together, single crochet around one ear, then, when you get to the place between the ears, put another single crochet in the same space as the first.  Continue to single crochet around the next ear, join to the first st, then chain 1. (18)
Rds 2-16: Sc in each st around, join, ch 1. (Do the "ch 1" in every rd but the last one.) Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. (18)

Stuff the body firmly with your choice of stuffing.

Finishing:

Face-

Embroider the nose as explained in the beginning of the post, and position the French knot or safety eyes over the edges of the nose.


Use the yarn needle to whipstitch up the bottom of the bunny with the long tail you left.

Dancin' Dots Drink Cozy

Today I'm posting a cute pattern for a drink cozy.  It's very versatile.  It helps protect your hands from icy drinks... burrr!  And, it makes your drinks look pretty. :)  It fits a regular bottled water or soda can great- I guess you could change the amount of increase rows for a larger or smaller cup. This pattern (in my eyes) would be upper level easy to beginning intermediate, just because of the constant color changes.  Once you get used to it, it's actually a fun project!

 

Materials:

Main Color (mine is green)

Contrast Color (mine is pink)

G/4.25mm crochet hook

Yarn needle

 

Abbreviations:

MC- main color (you will change color at this)

CC- contrast color (you will change color at this)

yo- yarn over

st- stitch

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

hdc- half double crochet

bobble- (*yo, insert into st, pull up a loop, yo,  pull through 2 loops*) 4 times in same st, yo and pull through all 5 loops

 

Instructions:

 

Magic Ring, ch 1.

 

Rd 1: 6 sc in ring, join, ch 1. (6)

Rd 2: 2 sc in each st around, join, ch 1. (12)

Rd 3: 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st, (*2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st*) around, join, ch 1. (18)

Rd 4: 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, (*2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts*) around, join, ch 1. (24)

Rd 5: 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, (*2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts*) around, join, ch 2. (30)

Rd 6: Hdc in 1st st, CC, bobble, (*MC, hdc in next st, CC, bobble in next st*) around ending with MC, join, ch 2. (30)

Rd 7: Hdc in each st around, join, ch 2. (30)

Rd 8: Hdc in 1st 2 sts, CC, bobble, (*MC, hdc in next 2 sts, CC, bobble in next st*) around ending with MC, join, ch 2. (30)

Rd 9: Hdc in each st around, join, ch 2. (30)

Rd 10: Repeat rd 6.

Rd 11: Hdc in each st around, join, ch 2.

Rd 12: Repeat rd 8.

Rd 13: Hdc in each st around, join, ch 1.

Rda 14-17: Sc in each st around, join, ch 1 (alternate colors each rd if desired), finish off.

 

Finishing:

Weave in all ends.

Lacy Ruffle Scarf

This style of scarf is both light and beautiful.  The girly ruffles can be made in any color, length, or thickness.  Though you use a crochet hook to create them, this really isn't a crochet project since no crochet stitches are used.  Feel free to experiment with this effortless and light design!

Materials:

Your choice crochet hook (this doesn't matter since tension isn't a factor)

1 ball "Red Heart Sashay Boutique" or similar

 

 

Instructions:

Open up the yarn to its full width; you should see the holes in the lace.  Fold the yarn over itself 2-3 inches.  Working into the top loops, pick up 10 loops on your hook.  You can adjust the number of loops you pick up to make the scarf thicker, thinner, longer, or shorter. (Less for a long, thin scarf, more for a short, full scarf.) When you have the desired number of loops on your hook, keep the last loop on your hook and draw through all other loops.  You should now only have one loop.  Continue this pattern until you reach the end of the ball or have reached your desired length.  When finishing off, cut the yarn, take the entirety of the strand of yarn, yarn over and pull through.  Tie a secure knot and hide the end within the scarf by pulling it through with the hook.

Ice Cream Dishcloth/Potholder

A while back, I was inspired by a cute cupcake dishcloth to make this.  It's cute and useful, and it can be used as a dishcloth or a potholder.  I hope you like this design, and, as always, you can share as long as you give credit.

*Tip: If you want a dishcloth, use cotton yarn; if you want a potholder, use acrylic.

 

Materials:

H/5.00mm hook

Pink or preferred worsted yarn for ice cream

Brown or preffered worsted yarn for cone

Red worsted yarn for cherry

Yarn needle

 

Abbreviations:

ch- chain

dc- double crochet

sc- single crochet

st(s)- stitch(es)

sl st- slip stitch

sk- skip

hdc- half double crochet

dc dec- double crochet decrease

blo- back loops only

flo- front loops only

FO- finish off

 

Ice Cream Scoop:

 

Magic Ring, ch 2.

 

Row 1: 6 dc in ring (DO NOT JOIN), slightly tighten ring, ch 2, turn. (6)

Row 2: 2 dc in 1st st and in each st across, ch 2, turn. (12)

Row 3: 1 dc in 1st st, 2 dc in next st, (*1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*) across, ch 2, turn. (18)

Row 4: 1 dc in 1st st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, (*1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st*) across, ch 2, turn. (24)

Row 5: 1 dc in 1st st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, (*1 dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st*) across, ch 2, turn. (30)

Row 6: 1 dc in 1st st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, (*1 dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st*) across, ch 1. (36)

 

 

Edge:

 

You will now work on the flat edge where the beginning and end of each round is.  Count each ch 2 space and each dc as a st.

 

Row 1: 3 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next 5 sts, 3 sc in magic ring, 2 sc in next 5 sts, 3 sc in last st. (29)

Row 2: Working in blo, 4 dc in 1st st, (*sk next st, sl st in next st, sk next st, 5 dc in next st*) across, sl st in last st, FO. (48)

 

Cone:

 

The cone is worked in the front loops of the last row.  This ensures that you won't have to do that pesky sewing that we all try to avoid :).

 

 In the flo, join the brown to the 2nd st of the last row, ch 2.

 

Row 1: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, (*1 dc in next 3 sts, dc dec in next 2 sts*) until second to last stitch, ch 2, turn. (21)

Row 2: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 17 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (19)

Row 3: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 15 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (17)

Row 4: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 13 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (15)

Row 5: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 11 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn.  (13)

Row 6: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 9 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (11)

Row 7: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 7 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (9)

Row 8: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (7)

Row 9: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 3 sts, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (5)

Row 10: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next 1 st, dc dec in last 2 sts, ch 2, turn. (3)

Row 11: Dc dec in 1st 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, FO. (2)

 

Cherry:

 

Magic Circle, ch 2.

 

Rd 1: 8 hdc in ring, tighten ring, join,m ch 2. (8)

Rd 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join. (Do not FO, go directly to directions for stem.) (16)

 

Stem:

 

Ch 15, sl st to same st, FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

 

Finishing:

 

Sew the cherry to the top of the ice cream scoop and use yarn needle to weave in ends.

Windless Wilderness Trapper Hat

My dad is really big on hunting and fishing, so he's outside every chance he gets.  During the winter ,though, chilling winter winds cut right through most garments- but not this one!  This hat is made of pure sheep wool, known for its warmth and water resistance.  The flap on the forehead doubles as a pocket; this makes the perfect place to store a lighter, small box of matches, etc..  This is a true, no-joke trapper hat!

Sizing: Fits 22-24" head

 

Materials:

2 colors worsted yarn (I used wool)

G/4.25mm hook

yarn needle

sewing needle

sewing thread

2 1" buttons

 

Abbreviatons:

Rd- round

R- row

Ch- chain

Hdc- half double crochet

Dc- double crochet

St(s)- stitch(es)

Hdc dec- half double crochet decrease

Sl st- slip stitch

Sp- space

FO- fasten off

 

Instructions:

 

Cap Portion-

 

Holding both strands of yarn together, magic circle, ch 1.

 

Rd 1: 8 hdc in ring, join, ch 1.(8)

Rd 2: 2 hdc in each st around,  join, ch 1.(16)

Rd 3: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st, (*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st*) around, join, ch 1.(24)

Rd 4: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, (*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts*) around, join, ch 1.(32)

Rd 5: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, (*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts*) around, join, ch 1.(40)

Rd 6: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, (*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts*) around, join, ch 1.(48)

Rd 7: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, (*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts*) around, join, ch 1.(56)

Rd 8: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, (*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts*) around, join, ch 1.(64)

Rd 9: 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, (*2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 7 sts*) around, join, ch 1.(72)

Rds 10-18: 1 hdc in each st around, join, ch1. (80)

 

At the end of rd 18, be sure not to FO!

 

Earflaps:

 

Earflap 1-

R 1: 1 hdc in same sp as ch 1 from last rd in cap, 1 hdc in next 13 sts, ch 1.(14)

R 2: Hdc across, ch 1.

R 3: Hdc dec over next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 10 sts, hdc dec over last 2 sts, ch 1.(12)

R 4,5: Repeat row 2.(12)

R 6: Hdc dec over next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 8 sts, hdc dec over last 2 sts, ch 1.(10)

R 7,8: Repeat row 2.(10)

R 9: Crochet across as follows: (sc,sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc), FO.(10)

 

Leave 26 sts across the front for the head flap/pocket.

 

Earflap 2-

Attatch yarn in 27th sp from previous earflap, ch 1.

Then, repeat earflap 1.

 

Head Flap/Pocket-

 

Attach yarn in 5th sp from right earflap.

 

R 1-5: Ch 2, 18 dc across.(18)

Do not FO at end of R 5.

 

Border-

 

Ch 1, hdc evenly around the hat (this includes each earflap and the head flap), join to 1st st.

 

Finishing:

 

Weave in all ends.  Sew the buttons to the front of the head flap as pictured.  If desired, sew the flap to the hat like a pocket.  If not, only sew at the top corners.